Garment form and method for producing the same



Ml H. TAFT Aug. 23, 1938.

GARMENT FORM AND METHOD FOR PRODUCING ,THE SAME WW e AMAAAWQ 5Sheets-Sheet l Filed April 27, 1937 M. H. TAFT Aug. 23, 1938.

GARMENT FORM Am) METHOD FOR rnonucme THE SAME s sheets-sheet 2 FiledApril 27, 1937 M. H. TAFT Aug. 23, 1938.

GARMENT FORM AND METHOD FOR PRODUCING THE SAME Filed April 27, 1937 sSheets-Sheet 5 HHH Patented Aug. 23, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICEGARMENT FORM AND METHOD FOR PRO.- DUCING THE SAME 6 Claims.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in garment formsand methods for producing the same.

The primary object of the invention is to provide a method of producinga garment form which will accurately reproduce all of the curves andhollows of the human torso being modeled.

A further object of the invention is to provide a garment form which hasbeen made to so accurately reproduce the modeled torso that it may beemployed, in the absence of its owner, to effect a perfect fit ofgarments, whereby the owner will be spared the tedious andtime-consuming procedure heretofore resorted to for fitting each new orremodeled garment.

Another object of the invention is the provision of a garment form whichwill be of light weight, extremely durable, and yet present a sightlyappearance.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent duringthe course of the following description.

In the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification and inwhich like numerals are employed to designate like parts throughout thesame:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of a completed garment form embodyingthis invention;

Figure 2 is a central vertical sectional view of the garment formdisclosed in Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a front elevational view disclosing the two initial steps ofthe method employed for producing the garment form embodying thisinvention;

Figure 4 is a side elevational view of the embryonic garment form shelldisclosed in Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a detail view disclosing the manner in which the paperstrips are overlapped at their sides and ends during the method step ofcovering the foundation or fabric base of the form;

Figure 6 is a rear elevational View of the embryonic garment form shellafter the fabric base has been completely covered with paper strips andthen cut up the back to permit the shell to be removed from the humanbody being modeled with the shell remaining in one piece;

Figure 7 illustrates the method employed for joining the cut edges ofthe shell;

Figure 8 is a central vertical sectional view of the shell andillustrates the steps of applying a reinforcing or stiffening cover orcoating to the interior surface of the shell and binding the arm holesand the neck and bottom edges of the shell;

Figure 9 is a central vertical sectional View taken at right angles tothe disclosure of Figure 8 and illustrates the step of applying aplastic material to the interior of the shell to give the shell thedesired degree of durability and permanency;

Figure 10 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view of the lower portionof the shell disclosed in Figure 9 and illustrates the positioning of ablock or filler in the lower portion of the shell for reinforcing thisportion of the shell and for permitting the final garment form to bemounted upon a standard;

Figure 11 is a detail plan view of the bottom block or filler which isillustrated in Figure 10 as being applied to the lower portion of thegarment shell;

Figure 12 is a perspective view illustrating the garment form with ablock or filler positioned within the neck opening and with a finalcoating of colored waterproof liquid, such as enamel, applied to theexterior thereof; and

Figure 13 is a bottom plan view of the completed garment formillustrated in Figures 1 and 2.

In the drawings, wherein for the purpose. of illustration are shown thepreferred embodiments of this invention, and referring particularly toFigures 3 and 4, the human body or torso l5 being modeled first hassnugly fitted thereto a covering of cotton jersey, or any other thinfabric, l6, which forms the fabric base of the garment form embodyingthis invention. This fabric covering or base is tightly fitted to thebody, care being taken to remove all slack in the fabric at theessential places, i. e., at the bust, the waist, the small of the back,shoulder blades, etc., from high on the neck to below the broad part ofthe hips and about one-half inch onto the arms. This tight fit isaccomplished by forming exterior seams which are stitched by hand, andthe seams are then all trimmed to about one sixteenth of an inch toavoid bulk. Due to the thinness of the base fabric I6, the seams IT (seeFigure 4) will not be objectionably bulky.

A stiffening and form-maintaining covering is next applied to theexterior surface of the base fabric Hi. This covering consists of shortstrips of sticky paper tape, cut in three or four standard lengths andapplied principally in herringbone fashion, as designated at l 8 inFigures 3 to '7, inclusive. Figure 5 illustrates the manner in which thestrips are overlapped at their longitudinal edges and at their ends.Laterally, the strips are overlapped substantially half their width withthe result that the stiffening covering or layer possesses a thicknessof substantially twice the thickness of a single strip of paper. Thesestrips of paper tape must be very carefully applied and fitted to all ofthe curves and hollows of the body. By applying the strips inherringbone fashion, it has been determined that they may be made tomore smoothly and easily fit the contours of the body. The curvature ofthe bust may be more accurately reproduced by spirally applyingprogressively shorter strips of paper tape, starting with the peripheryand working toward the center, in the manner illustrated at H] inFigures 3 and 4. The neck portion 20 may be best formed by applying thepaper strips circumferentially in overlapped layers.

After the stiffening and form-maintaining paper covering is applied tothe base fabric, the final bottom edge of the garment form should belaid off by marking or drawing a line all around the shell on a linejust below the fullest part of the hips or thighs and at an evendistance from the floor. This measurement becomes very important whenthe garment form is applied to a standard or support so that the entiregarment form may be accurately positioned on the standard with respecttothe floor so as to reproduce the height and posture of the human bodybeing modeled. Lines should be marked on the shell to indicate the truearm holes on both sides of the form.

To enable the garment form shell to be removed from the human body inone piece, a straight line is drawn down the center of the back of theshell. The shell is then out along this back line, and after completeseverance, the shell is removed from the body. The cut edges of the backshould at once be fitted together. This is accomplished by the shortstrips of paper applied diagonally across the edges and in two layerswith the strips of each layer crossed with respect to the strips of theother layer. This crossing of the paper strips provides the desiredstrength. It has been determined that the most logical place to cut theshell for removal from the body is along the center of the back sincethe small strips of paper tape, employed for joining the cut edges ofthe shell, will fit into the small of the back and along the spinalcurve without producing bulk at a point where the same will beobjectionable or will prevent accurate fitting of garments to the form.Figure 6 discloses at 2| where the shell has been severed up the back.The reference character 22 in Figure 7 designates the short strips ofpaper tape which have been applied to the shell for the purpose ofjoining the cut edges of the shell.

After the shell has been properly fitted together again, as illustratedin Figure '7, the shell is trimmed on all of the lines which define thebottom edge, the arm holes, and the neck opening of the shell. Thesevarious edges should be bound, as best shown in Figure 8, with strips ofsticky paper 23 which are laid in parallelism and laterally overlap.These strips are arranged at right angles to the edges of the shell andare secured to the shell at the inner and'outer faces of the same.

At this point in the development of the garment form, a pattern isdrafted of the neck and bottom openings of the shell. Figures 10 and 11disclose a wood block which is cut from the pattern for the bottomopening of the shell. This block, designated by the reference character24, is formed of ply-wood preferably and is provided with a centralaperture 25. Figures 2 and 12 disclose the ply-wood block 26 which ismade from the pattern of the neck opening. This block 26 is apertured at21. The two apertures and 21 are positioned so as to determine theposture of the form when mounted on a standard. The blocks 24 and 26 areassembled in the shell at a later point in the method and will bereferred to again.

One of the final steps of this method of producing a garment formconsists of applying one or more layers of a plastic material to theinterior of the shell to give the latter the desired degree ofpermanency and durability. This plastic material cannot be made toproperly and permanently adhere to the inner surface of the fabric baseit. It becomes necessary, therefore, to apply a covering of somecharacter to the inner surface of the base fabric H3 to which theplastic material will adhere. Two different coverings for the innersurface of the base fabric have been employed and found to be very satisfactory. One of these coverings is illustrated in Figures 2, 8, and 9as consisting of a layer of sticky paper tape 28 which is applied inherring-bone fashion, as shown in Figure 8. This paper covering willadhere to the fabric base 16, and the plastic material will properlyadhere to the paper layer.

The second type of covering for the inner surface of the base fabric itconsists of applying a coating of shellac directly to the inner surfaceof the base fabric. This shellac covering may be applied more rapidlythan the paper covering 28 and affords a very satisfactory surface towhich the plastic material will adhere. The shellac coating has thefurther advantage that it will soak through the fabric base l6 and actas a further bond between the outer paper covering l8 and the basefabric 16.

After the paper covering 28, or the shellac covering, has been appliedand is thoroughly dried and set, a thin layer of a suitable plasticmaterial is applied to the inner surface of the shell. This plasticmaterial may take the form of wood putty or plaster although I do notdesire to limit myself to this particular material. Any other suitableworkable material may be employed.

When this first thin coat of plastic material has thoroughly dried, anadditional layer of the same material is applied to the inner surface ofthe thin layer. This second layer preferably is about one half inch inthickness. It will be appreciated that the plastic material may beapplied in several thin layers, if desired, instead of one thin layerand one thick layer. The combined thickness of the layers of plasticmaterial is such that the form will be given the desired durability,weight, and permanency.

After the plastic material has thoroughly set and hardened, the blocks24 and 26 are then positioned within the bottom and neck openings of theform. These blocks are secured in place by wire brads 29 (see Figures 10and 12) which are driven radially inwardly of the peripheral edges ofthe blocks. The wire brads may be spaced any desired distance apart.

For the purpose of rendering the garment form waterproof and to enhancethe appearance of the same, a pink enamel coating 30 is applied to theexterior surface of the form. This enamel coating is illustrated inFigures 2 and 12.

A final covering of pink wool jersey is then stretched over the form forthe purpose of having a fabric covering to pin to when the form is inuse. This jersey covering 3| is best shown in Figures 1, 2, and 13 andis provided with draw-strings 32 at'the top and bottom to enable thejersey covering to be easily removed to permit laundering. This jerseycovering also makes it possible to easily draw the same off of portionsof the form, such, for example, as the hips, to permit padding to beapplied to the form in case the owner varies in measurements due togaining weight subsequent to the modeling of the form.

Figures 1 and 2 illustrate a form of standard 33 which is employed forsupporting the garment form while in use. This standard consists of asuitable base 34 and an upright post 35. The post is received within theapertures 25 and 21 of the lower and upper blocks 24 and 2B,respectively, and the fit is such that the form will be permitted torotate relative to the post. Suitable brads 31 are driven into the post35 at a proper height to support the garment form a distance from thefloor which corresponds identically with the positioning of thesimulated portions of the human body reproduced by the form.

To protect the finished form from dust when not in use, or otherwise, awashable fabric cape 38 is made to cover the form. This fabric cape 38is illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 and is secured by means of a ribbon39, or other fastening means, around the neck of the form.

It is to be understood that the forms of this invention herewith shownand described are to be taken as preferred examples of the same and thatvarious changes in the method steps and the shape, size, and arrangementof parts of the garment form may be resorted to without departing fromthe spirit of the invention or the scope of the subjoined claims.

Having thus described the invention, I claim:

1. The method of making garment forms'which comprises the steps ofsnugly fitting to the portions of the body being reproduced a fabricbase, applying to the exterior of the said base a stiffening coveringformed of relatively short strips of fabric secured in herring-bonefashion with all edges of adjacent strips overlapped, cutting the thusformed shell along the center of the back to permit removal from thebody in one piece, joining the cut edges, trimming and binding the armholes, the neck, and the bottom edge of the shell, applying a coveringto the interior surface of said fabric base which will form a plasticbonding surface, and finally applying a plastic stiffening andreinforcing layer to the interior bonding surface on the fabric basewhich is of proper thickness to provide the form with the desireddegreev of durability and permanency.

2. The method of making garment forms which comprises the steps ofsnugly fitting to the portions of the body being reproduced a fabricbase, applying to theexterior of the said base a stiffening coveringformed of short strips of fabric secured in herring-bone fashion withall edges of adjacent strips overlapped, cutting the thus formed shellalong the center of the back to permit removal fro-m the body in onepiece, joining the cut edges, trimming and binding the arm holes, theneck, and the bottom edge of the shell, applying to the interior surfaceof said fabric base a stiffening and plastic bonding surface formed ofstrips of fabric secured in herringbone fashion with the edges ofadjacent strips overlapped, and finally applying a plastic stiffeningand reinforcing layer to the interior bonding surface on the fabric basewhich is of proper thickness to-.provide the form with'the desireddegree of durability and permanency.

3-. The method of making garment forms which comprises the steps ofsnugly fitting to the portion of the body being reproduced a fabricbase, applying to the exterior of the said base a stiffening coveringformed of relatively short strips of fabric secured in herring-bonefashion with all of the edges-of-adjacent strips overlapped, cutting thethus formed shell along the center of theback to permit removal from thebody in one piece, joining the cut edges, trimming and binding the armholes, the neck, and the bottom edge of the shell, applying a coating ofshellac to the interior surface of said shell to give added stiffness tothe shell, form a plastic bonding surface on the fabric base and tofurther bond the exterior stiffening covering to the fabric base, andfinally applying a plastic stiffening and reinforcing layer to theinterior bonding surface on the fabric base which is of proper thicknessto provide the form with the desired degree of durability andpermanency.

4. The method of making garment forms which comprises the steps ofsnugly fitting to the portions of the body being reproduced a fabricbase, applying to the exterior of the said base a stiffening coveringformed of relatively short strips of fabric secured in herring-bonefashion with all of the edges of adjacent strips overlapped, cutting thethus formed shell along the center of the back to permit removal fromthe body in one piece, joining the cut edges, trimming and binding thearm holes, the neck, and the bottom edge of the shell, applying acovering of shellac to the interior surface of said shell to give addedstiffness to the shell, form a plastic bonding surface on the fabricbase and to further bond the exterior stiffening covering to the fabricbase, applying a thin layer of plastic material to the said bondingsurface of the fabric base, and after said thin layer has thoroughlydried, applying a second layer of plastic material to the first layerwith the second layer being of proper thickness to provide the desireddegree of durability and permanency.

5. The method of making garment forms which comprises the steps offorming on the portions of the body being reproduced a snugly fitting,

, thin fabric base covering with the seams formed on the exterior andtrimmed close to the body to avoid bulk, completely covering theexterior of the fabric base with relatively short strips of sticky papertape applied in herring-bone fashion and with the edges of adjacentstrips overlapped, marking the bottom portion of the shell all around ata uniform distance from the floor, marking the arm portions to provideaccurate arm holes, marking the neck portion at the desired height,marking the center of the back of said shell throughout its full height,cutting the shell up the back to permit removal in one piece, joiningthe cut edges with strips of sticky paper crossed for added strength,trimming the bottom, the arm holes, and the neck on said markings toprovide true straight edges, binding the arm holes, the neck, and thebottom edges with strips of sticky paper laid in parallel and laterallyoverlapped relation and secured to the inner and outer surfaces of theshell, coating the entire inner surface of the shell with shellac tofurther stiffen the shell and bond the outer paper covering to the basefabric, after the shellac has dried applying a thin layer of plasticwood composition to the inner surface of the shell, after thoroughhardening of the plastic layer applying a second layer of a plastic woodcomposition to the first layer with the second layer being of properthickness to provide the desired degree of durability and permanency,and mounting a stifi closure block in the bottom and neck openings ofthe shell, and coating the exterior of the shell with a coloredWaterproof liquid.

6. The method of making garment forms which comprises the steps ofsnugly fitting to the portions of the body being reproduced a fabricbase, applying to the exterior of the said base a stiffening coveringformed of relatively short strips of fabric secured in herring-bonefashion with all edges of adjacent strips overlapped, cutting the thusformed shell along the center of the back to permit removal from thebody in one piece, joining the cut edges, applying a covering to theinterior surface of said fabric base which will form a plastic bondingsurface, and finally applying a plastic, stiffening and reinforcinglayer to the interior bonding surface on the fabric base which is ofproper thickness to provide the form with the desired degree ofdurability and permanency.

MARIAN HALS-TEAD TAF'I.

